History
Kalamkari is a traditional Indian art form, characterized by intricate hand-painted or block-printed designs on fabric, using natural dyes. Its history dates back over 3,000 years, flourishing under royal patronage during the Mughal era. Originating in Andhra Pradesh and Tamil Nadu, Kalamkari art
initially depicted mythological scenes from Hindu epics like the Ramayana and Mahabharata, often used as temple backdrops. Over time, it evolved to include floral, animal, and geometric motifs.
Early origins and evolution Ancient Roots: Evidence suggests Kalamkari's
presence in the Indus Valley Civilization, with resist-dyed cloth found at the Harappa archaeological site.
Temple
Art: Initially, it thrived in Hindu temples as a means of narrating religious stories and mythological scenes from epics like the Ramayana and
Mahabharata on large cloth panels, scrolls, and hangings.
Mughal Patronage: Under the patronage of the Vijayanagara Empire, the Golconda Sultanate, and later the Mughals, Kalamkari flourished, particularly in the Deccan region. The term "Qualamkars" referred to the artisans, leading to the adoption of "Kalamkari" as the art form's name.
Distinct styles
Two prominent styles of Kalamkari emerged:
Srikalahasti Style: Characterized by freehand drawing and intricate detailing using a pen-like tool, often depicting mythological narratives and religious motifs.
Machilipatnam Style: Involves the use of block printing techniques to create vibrant patterns and motifs, typically featuring floral and geometric designs. The textiles produced here were versatile, used for clothing, prayer mats, bedspreads, tapestries, and hangings, and were influenced by Persian and European motifs due to Machilipatnam being a busy port.
In ancient India, the art of painting using organic colors and dyes was very popular, but this style of painting originated at Kalahasti (80 miles north of Chennai) and at Masulipatnam (200 miles east of Hyderabad). The paintings then used to depict Hindu Deities and the scenes from Hindu mythology. Masulipatnam being a Muslim region, the weavers were involved in the block printing art whereas the artists from Kalahasti practiced painting Hindu Mythological scenes.
Owing to Muslim rule in Golconda, the Masulipatnam Kalamkari was influenced by Persian motifs & designs, widely adapted to suit their taste. The outlines and main features are done using hand-carved blocks.
Originally used as decorative wall hangings of the Muslim royalty of South India, Kalamkari, the hand-painted and block printed textile craft, was Persian-inspired, with the 'Tree of Life' as the dominant motif against a profusion of flowers, creepers, and birds. The Machilipatnam 'Mihrab' created by master artisan P.M. Eswarudu and his father Nageswara Rao for the Festival of India in 1982 is a masterpiece of Kalamkari. Sadly, Machilipatnam Kalamkari craft went into near oblivion in the early 20th century due to hanging lifestyles and lack of patronage. It was resuscitated in the 1960s by visionaries such as Kamala Devi Chattopadhyay, Nelli Sethna, Pupul Jayakar, and others.
Painstakingly going through old kalamkari collections and loads of forgotten blocks, and working with artisans such as Eswarudu, they have revived Kalamkari. And the tradition continues...!
Adaptation of Machilipatnam Kalamkari Block Print Into Our Community
Ours is a weavers community named DEVANGA. A typical devanga family has atleast one handloom unit in it. Due to financial crisis in the family, my grandfather Late Shri. P. Nageswara rao moved from handloom to kalamkari handicraft profession and learned kalamkari blockprinting at Balyalgudem Society in Machilipatnam. He practiced this craft with the help of Late Shri. Vinnakota Venkata Swami Naidu and Late Shri. Rekapalli Pardhasaradhi, who are his gurus of Kalamkari.
In turn with the helping hand of my father Late. Shri. P. Mukkanteswarudu who is called as Eswarudu in this field, exposed this craft to the craft lovers worldwide with help of expo’s, exhibitions, melas.
